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French Seam
The French Seam is my favorite seam of all time. It’s fully encased and leaves no visible stitching on the right side of the garment. Any time I have to make an unlined garment, you can bet I’m using...
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Hairline Seam
This is the ultra-thin version of the French Seam. It’s very useful if you’re making fine linen pieces (like coifs), or if you’re working with dolls and cannot divorce yourself from the idea of fully...
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Pinking a Seam Allowance
You should always do something with your seam allowances so they don’t fray and tangle. Pinking is one of the simplest things you can do to finish a seam. Sample: A Seam, finished by Pinking. Critical...
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Using the Selvedge Edge
The “selvedge” (not “salvage”, which is what I always thought my mother was saying) edge of the fabric is created as the fabric is woven on the loom, as the weft is taken back and forth. It’s a...
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Zig-Zag Edges
Sometimes, you just want to finish an edge really really fast – you don’t care if it looks pretty up close. (Like, say, you’re working on a show where everyone seems to wear a veil that the audience...
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Finishing a Seam Allowance by Hand
Sometimes, you have to finish a seam allowance so it won’t fray. (Or, possibly, you’re like me and compulsively finish seams, whether they need it or not.) There are times when you can’t use a french...
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Hand Felling a Seam Allowance
Felled seams are sturdy and utilitarian. We’re mostly familiar with them as the re-inforced seams on our jeans, but felling is a very old technique. It was a handworked finish for seams centuries...
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Why Square Corners?
Geometry is important in pattern making. I know I go off about that a lot, but it’s true, and it’s why I’m obsessive about squaring corners. Here’s the thing: if your corners aren’t square, then your...
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Classic Flat Felled Seam
This is the classic seam associated with denim, particularly when it comes to jeans. It’s really deceptively easy to do. (It does help if you can sew pretty straight.) Here’s how you do: Start with...
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The Fakey-Fell
Let’s be honest – most of us aren’t buying jeans at a price point where we’re going to see a real flat-felled seam. It’s a multi-step procedure that (optionally, imho) involves an iron. It also falls...
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